El París bohemio

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Montmartre

¿Quién no recuerda a Hemingway postrado en una tasca parisina? ¿Y a Picasso pintando entre amigos? Ninguno de nosotros estábamos allí, pero Woody Allen nos llevó de la mano en Midnight in Paris. Como la película, la Ciudad de la Luz era intensa, brillante, viva. Los intelectuales más importantes del siglo XX se inspiraban en su cielo y alternaban en sus cafés.

Lejos quedan aquellos felices años 20, pero la impronta de los genios perdura al sur del Sena. Tomando como referencia el Eurostars Panorama, la primera parada de esta ruta es Montparnasse. Con la energía de un delicioso café con croissants de su mítico boulevard se puede emprender la visita al pequeño museo Bourdelle, un antiguo taller que reúne 500 piezas esculpidas en mármol, yeso, pinturas e incluso pasteles. Las enredaderas y las acacias del jardín interior evocan el ambiente del París bohemio.

Avanzando por el bpulevard Montparnasse se llega a los jardines del Observatorio, donde se puede contemplar la Luna, de las fases de Vénus y las manchas solares. 

las señoritas de avignonBajando por Luxemburgo y la plaza Saint-Sulpice aparece Saint-Germain-des-Prés, el lugar en el que gravitan las artes y las letras. Es fácil cruzarse con escritores de renombre en sus cafés. El barrio debe su nombre a la iglesia cuyas primeras piedras datan del año 557. Más recientemente la explosión del existencialismo dirigido por Camus y Sartre hizo temblar el suelo a ritmo de Jazz. 

El París bohemio se extiende hasta Montmartre, cuya estación de metro es Odéon. ¡Hay tantos recuerdos grabados en esta colina! El antiguo Bateau-Lavoir, donde nacieron las señoritas de Avignon de Picasso. El café de Amélie en la Rue Lepic. De hecho, subiendo por la Rue Tholozé se puede ver una película en un cine apadrinado por Buñuel y Cocteau.

En la cima de Montmartre está la Basílica del Sacré-cœur, rodeada por un laberinto de calles y una viña. Sus espectaculares vistas desde el parque de la Turlure o la Rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre rememoran los talleres de Picasso, el surgimiento del cubismo, los cabarés, las canciones en las calles… En definitiva, el espíritu de una generación que despertó nuestra imaginación.

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